If you want to control a LOT of power, a fragile glass tube is more difficult to use. So, really big tubes today are made entirely of ceramic insulators and metal electrodes. Otherwise, they are much the same inside as small glass tubes--a hot cathode, a grid or grids, and a plate, with a vacuum in-between.
In these big tubes, the plate is also part of the tube's outer envelope. Since the plate carries the full tube current and has to dissipate a lot of heat, it is made with either a heat radiator through which lots of cooling air is blown, or it has a jacket through which water or some other liquid is pumped to cool it. The air-cooled tubes are often used in radio transmitters, while the liquid-cooled tubes are used to make radio energy for heating things in heavy industrial equipment. Such tubes are used as "RF induction heaters", to make all kinds of products--even other tubes.
Ceramic tubes are made with different equipment than glass tubes, although the processes are similar. The exhaust tubing is soft metal rather than glass, and it is usually swaged shut with a hydraulic press. All the equipment for exhausting and conditioning the tube is much larger, since there is more volume to exhaust, and the large metal parts require more aggressive induction heating. The ceramic parts are usually ring-shaped and have metal seals brazed to their edges; these are attached to their mating metal parts by welding or brazing.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
3/19/08
Metal-ceramic power grid types
Assembling the tube
A typical glass
audio tube is made on an assembly line by people wielding tweezers and small electric spot-welders. They assemble the plate, cathode, grids and other parts inside a set of mica or ceramic spacers, then crimp the whole assembly together. The electrical connections are then spot-welded to the tube's base wiring. This work has to be done in fairly clean conditions, although not as extreme as the "clean rooms" used to make semiconductors. Smocks and caps are worn, and each workstation is equipped with a constant source of filtered airflow to keep dust away from the tube parts.
Once the finished assembly is attached to the base, the glass envelope can be slid over the assembly and flame-sealed to the base disc. A small glass exhaust tube is still attached, and enters the envelope. The tube assembly is attached to a processing machine (sometimes called a "sealex" machine, an old American brandname for this kind of device). The exhaust tubing goes to a multistage high-vacuum pump. The sealex has a rotating turntable with several tubes, all undergoing a different step in the process. (See more pictures of glass tube assembly and production)
First comes vacuum pumping; while the pump runs, an RF induction coil is placed over the tube assembly and all the metal parts are heated. This helps remove stray gases trapped in the parts, and also activates the cathode coating.
After 30 minutes or more (depending on the tube type and the vacuum desir
ed), the tube is automatically lifted up and a small flame seals its exhaust tubing.
The turntable rotates, and there may follow an electrical "break-in" period where the tube is put through a series of operational stresses, such as higher-than-rated heater voltages.
Then the tube is rotated to the getter-flash station, where a combination of RF induction heating and/or high-voltage discharge flashes the barium getter.
Finally the tube is removed, the base wiring is attached to the external base (if it is an octal base type) with a special heat-resistant cement, and the finished tube is ready for aging in a burn-in rack. If the tube meets a set of operational specs in a special tester, it is marked and shipped.
The getter
We want a good, hard vacuum inside a tube, or it will not work properly. And we want that vacuum to last as long as possible. Sometimes, very small leaks can appear in a tube envelope (often around the electrical connections in the bottom). Or, the tube may not have been fully "degassed" on the vacuum pump at the factory, so there may be some stray air inside. The "getter" is designed to remove some stray gas.
The getter in most glass tubes is a small cup or holder, containing a bit of a metal that reacts with oxygen strongly and absorbs it. (In most modern glass tubes, the getter metal is barium, which oxidizes VERY easily when it is pure.) When the tube is pumped out and sealed, the last step in processing is to "fire" the getter, producing a "getter flash" inside the tube envelope. That is the silvery patch you see on the inside of a glass tube. It is a guarantee that the tube has good vacuum. If the seal on the tube fails, the getter flash will turn white (because it turns into barium oxide).
There have been rumors that dark spots on getters indicate a tube which is used. This is NOT TRUE. Sometimes, the getter flash is not perfectly uniform, and a discolored or clear spot can occur. The tube is still good and will give full lifetime. THE ONLY RELIABLE WAY TO DETERMINE THE HEALTH OF A TUBE IS TO TEST IT ELECTRICALLY.
Glass power tubes often do not have flashed getters. Instead, they use a metal getter device, usually coated with zirconium or titanium which has been purified to allow oxidation. These getters work best when the tube is very hot, which is how such tubes are designed to be used. The Svetlana 812A and SV811 use such getters.
The most powerful glass tubes have graphite plates. Graphite is heat-resistant (in fact, it can operate with a dull red glow for a long time without failing). Graphite is not prone to secondary emission, as noted above. And, the hot graphite plate will tend to react with, and absorb, any free oxygen in the tube. The Svetlana SV572 series and 572B use graphite plates coated with purified titanium, a combination which gives excellent gettering action. A graphite plate is much more expensive to make than a metal plate of the same size, so it is only used when maximum power capability is needed. Large ceramic tubes use zirconium getters. Since you can't see a "flash" with such tubes, the state of the tube's vacuum has to be determined by electrical means (sometimes by metering the grid current).
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
The heater inside the cathode
An oxide-coated cathode can't heat itself, and it has to be hot to emit electrons. So, a wire filament heater is inserted within the cathode. This heater has to be coated with an electrical insulation that won't burn up at the high temperatures, so it is coated with powdered aluminum oxide. This is an occasional cause of failure in such tubes; the coating rubs off or cracks, so the heater can touch the cathode. This can prevent normal operation of the tube. And if the heater is running from AC power, it can put some of the AC signal into the amplifier's output, making it unusable in some applications. Good-quality tubes have very rugged and reliable heater coatings.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Audio Beam Tetrode
This is a special kind of beam tetrode, with a pair of "beam plates" to constrain the electron beam to a narrow ribbon on either side of the cathode. Also, the control and screen grids have their wire turns aligned, much like the large ceramic tetrodes (above). Unlike the ceramic tetrodes, the grids are at a critical distance from the cathode, producing a "virtual cathode" effect. All this adds up to greater efficiency and lower distortion than a regular tetrode or pentode. The first popular beam tetrode was the RCA 6L6, introduced in 1936. Beam tetrodes still made today include the SV6L6GC and SV6550C; the former is most popular in guitar amplifiers, while the latter is the most common power tube in modern high-end audio amplifiers for the home. Today this design is seen only in glass tubes used in audio amplifiers, not in ceramic power tubes.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Other grids--the pentode
By adding a third grid to the tetrode, we get a PENTODE. The third grid is called a suppressor grid and is inserted between the plate and the screen grid. It has very few wire turns, since its only job is to collect the stray secondary-emission electrons that bounce off the plate, and thereby eliminate the "tetrode kink". It is usually operated at the same voltage as the cathode. Tetrodes and pentodes tend to have higher distortion than triodes, unless special circuit designs are used (see ULTRALINEAR, below).
The EL34, EL84, SV83 and EF86 are true pentodes. The EL34 is widely used in guitar and high-end amplifiers as the power output tube. The smaller EL84 is seen in lower-cost guitar amps. The SV83 is used in a few high-end and guitar amps, while the EF86 is used as a low-noise preamp in guitar amps and professional audio equipment. One of the few large high-power pentodes is the 5CX1500B, often seen in radio transmitters.
There were tubes with more than three grids. The pentagrid converter tube, which had five grids, was widely used as the front-end frequency converter in radio receivers. Such tubes are no longer in production, having been fully replaced by semiconductors.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Screen grid--the tetrode
Adding another grid to a triode, between the control grid and the plate, makes it into a TETRODE. This "screen" grid helps screen, 
or isolate, the control grid from the plate. This is important is reducing the so-called Miller effect, which makes the capacitance between the grid and plate look much bigger than it really is. The screen also causes an electron-accelerating effect, increasing the tube's gain dramatically. The screen grid in a power tube carries some current, which causes it to heat up. For this reason, screen grids are usually coated with graphite, to reduce secondary emission and help keep the control grid cool.
Many large radio and TV stations use giant metal-ceramic power tetrodes, which are capable of high efficiency when used as RF power amplifiers. Power tetrodes are also sometimes used in amateur radio and industrial applications. (Regular tetrodes are rarely used for audio applications because of an effect called "tetrode kink", caused by that secondary emission. Most of it is due to electrons bouncing off the plate, some from the screen.) This greatly increases distortion and can cause instability if not carefully dealt with in the design. See section F, "audio beam tetrodes", below.)
Large ceramic tetrodes are often called "radial beam tetrodes" or simply "beam tetrodes", because their electron emission forms a disc-shaped beam. The wires on their control and screen grids are aligned, a special trick which improves efficiency.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Control Grid
In nearly all glass audio tubes, the control grid is a p
iece of plated wire, wound around two soft-metal posts. In small tubes the plating is usually gold, and there are two posts made of soft copper. Grids in big power tubes have to tolerate a lot of heat, so they are often made of tungsten or molybdenum wire welded into a basket form. Some large power tubes use basket-shaped grids made of graphite (see D below).
Inside any modern amplifying tube, one of the things to avoid is called secondary emission. This is caused by electrons striking a smooth metal surface. If many secondary electrons come out of the grid, it will lose control of the electron stream, so that the current "runs away", and the tube destroys itself. So, the grid is often plated with a metal that is less prone to secondary emission, such as gold. Special surface finishing is also used to help prevent secondary emission.
A tube with only one grid is a TRIODE. The most widely used small triode, the 12AX7, is a dual triode which has become the standard small-signal amplifier in guitar amps. Other small glass triodes used in audio equipment include the 6N1P, 6DJ8/6922, 12AT7, 12AU7, 6CG7, 12BH7, 6SN7 and 6SL7.
Many glass power triodes are currently on the market, most of them aimed at amateur radio or high-end audio use. Typical examples are the Svetlana SV300B, SV811/572 series, and 572B. Power triodes come in "low-mu" (low gain) and "high-mu" (high gain) versions. Low-mu triodes like the SV300B have very low distortion and are used in high-end audio amplifiers, while high-mu triodes are used mostly in radio transmitters and big high-power audio amplifiers.
Large ceramic-metal power triodes are often used in radio transmitters and to generate radio energy for industrial heating applications. Specialized triodes of many kinds are made for exotic applications, such as pulsed radars and high-energy physics work.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Plate (anode)
The plate, or anode, is the electrode that the output signal appears on. Because the plate has to accept the electron flow, it can get hot. Especially in power tubes. So it is specially designed to cool itself off, either by radiating heat through the glass envelope (if it's a glass tube), or by forced-air or liquid cooling (in bigger metal-ceramic tubes). Some tubes use a plate made of graphite, because it tolerates high temperatures and because it emits very few secondary electrons, which can overheat the tube's grid and cause failure. See "H--the getter" below for more about the graphite plate.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
Cathode
Today, nearly all tubes use one of two different kinds of cathode to generate electrons.
1) The thoriated filament: it is just a tungsten filament, much like that in a light bulb, except that a tiny amount of the rare metal THORIUM was added to the tungsten. When the filament is heated white-hot (about 2400 degrees Celsius), the thorium moves to the outer surface of it and emits electrons. The filament with thorium is a much better maker of electrons than the plain tungsten filament by itself. Nearly all big power tubes used in radio transmitters use thoriated filaments, as do some glass tubes used in hi-fi amps. The thoriated filament can last a VERY long time, and is very resistant to high voltages.
2) The other kind of cathode is the oxide-coated cathode or filament. This can be either just a filament coated with a mixture of barium and strontium oxides and other substances, or it can be an "indirectly heated" cathode, which is just a nickel tube with a coating of these same oxides on its outer surface and a heating filament inside. The cathode (and oxide coating) is heated orange-hot, not as hot as the thoriated filament--about 1000 degrees Celsius. These oxides are even better at making electrons than the thoriated filament. Because the oxide cathode is so efficient, it is used in nearly all smaller glass tubes. It can be damaged by very high voltages and bombardment by stray oxygen ions in the tube, however, so it is rarely used in really big power tubes.
3) Lifetime of cathodes: The lifetime of a tube is determined by the lifetime of its cathode emission. And the life of the of a cathode is dependent on the cathode temperature, the degree of vacuum in the tube, and purity of the materials in the cathode.
Tube life is sharply dependent on temperature, which means that it is dependent on filament or heater operating voltage. Operate the heater/filament too hot, and the tube will give a shortened life. Operate it too cool and life may be shortened (especially in thoriated filaments, which depend on replenishment of thorium by diffusion from within the filament wire). A few researchers have observed that the lifetime of an oxide-cathode tube can be greatly increased by operating its heater at 20% below the rated voltage. This USUALLY has very little effect on the cathode's electron emission, and might be worth experimenting with if the user wishes to increase the lifetime of a small-signal tube. (Low heater voltage is NOT recommended for power tubes, as the tube may not give the rated power output.) Operating the heater at a very low voltage has been observed to linearize some tube types-- we have not been able to verify this, so it may be another worthy experiment for an OEM or sophisticated experimenter. The average end-user is advised to use the rated heater or filament voltage--experimentation is not recommended unless the user is an experienced technician.
Oxide cathodes tend to give shorter lifetimes than thoriated filaments. Purity of materials is a big issue in making long-lived oxide cathodes--some impurities, such as silicates in the nickel tube, will cause the cathode to lose emission prematurely and "wear out". Low-cost tubes of inferior quality often wear out faster than better-quality tubes of the same type, due to impure cathodes.
Small-signal tubes almost always use oxide cathodes. Good-quality tubes of this type, if operated well within their ratings and at the correct heater voltage, can last 100,000 hours or more.
The world record for lifetime of a power tube is held by a large transmitting tetrode with a thoriated filament. It was in service in a Los Angeles radio station's transmitter for 10 years, for a total of more than 80,000 hours. When finally taken out of service, it was still functioning adequately. (The station saved it as a spare.) By comparison, a typical oxide-cathode glass power tube, such as an EL34, will last about 1500-2000 hours; and a tube with an oxide-coated filament, such as an SV300B, will last about 4000-10,000 hours. This is dependent on all the factors listed above, so different customers will observe different lifetimes.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
INSIDE A TUBE
All modern vacuum tubes are based on the concept of the Audion-
-a heated "cathode" boils off electrons into a vacuum; they pass through a grid (or many grids), which control the electron current; the electrons then strike the anode (plate) and are absorbed. By designing the cathode, grid(s) and plate properly, the tube will make a small AC signal voltage into a larger AC voltage, thus amplifying it. (By comparison, today's transistor makes use of electric fields in a crystal which has been specially processed--a much less obvious kind of amplifier, though much more important in today's world.)
Figure 3 (Inside a miniature tube) shows a typical modern vacuum tube. It is a glass bulb with wires passing through its bottom, and connecting to the various electrodes inside. Before the bulb is sealed, a powerful vacuum pump sucks all the air and gases out. This requires special pumps which can make very "hard" vacuums. To make a good tube, the pump must make a vacuum with no more than a millionth of the air pressure at sea level (one microTorr, in official technical jargon). The "harder" the vacuum, the better the tube will work and the longer it will last. Making an extremely hard vacuum in a tube is a lengthy process, so most modern tubes compromise at a level of vacuum that is adequate for the tube's application.
First, let's talk about the parts of the tube.........
The BASICS
Back in 1904, British scientist John Ambrose Fleming first showed his device to convert 
an alternating current signal into direct current. The "Fleming diode" was based on an effect that Thomas Edison had first discovered in 1880, and had not put to useful work at the time. This diode essentially consisted of an incandescent light bulb with an extra electrode inside. When the bulb's filament is heated white-hot, electrons are boiled off its surface and into the vacuum inside the bulb. If the extra electrode (also called an "plate" or "anode") is made more positive than the hot filament, a direct current flows through the vacuum. And since the extra electrode is cold and the filament is hot, this current can only flow from the filament to the electrode, not the other way. So, AC signals can be converted into DC. Fleming's diode was first used as a sensitive detector of the weak signals produced by the new wireless telegraph. Later (and to this day), the diode vacuum tube was used to convert AC into DC in power supplies for electronic equipment.
Many other inventors tried to improve the Fleming diode, most without success. The only one who succeeded was New York inventor Lee de Forest. In 1907 he patented a bulb with the same contents as the Fleming diode, except for an added electrode. This "grid" was a bent wire between the plate and filament. de Forest discovered that if he applied the signal from the wireless-telegraph antenna to the grid instead of the filament, he could obtain a much more sensitive detector of the signal. In fact, the grid was changing ("modulating") the current flowing from the filament to the plate. This device, the Audion, was the first successful electronic amplifier. It was the genesis of today's huge electronics industry.
Between 1907 and the 1960s, a staggering array of different tube families was developed, most derived from de Forest's invention. With a very few exceptions, most of 
the tube types in use today were developed in the 1950s or 1960s. One obvious exception is the 300B triode, which was first introduced by Western Electric in 1935. Svetlana's SV300B version, plus many other brands, continue to be very popular with audiophiles around the world. Various tubes were developed for radio, television, RF power, radar, computers, and specialized applications. The vast majority of these tubes have been replaced by semiconductors, leaving only a few types in regular manufacture and use. Before we discuss these remaining applications, let's talk about the structure of modern tubes.
By Eric Barbour
Information from www.vacuumtubes.net
3/17/08
Specifications
Type: Tubed phono stage
Mid-Band Gain: (47K load, 1KHz): 52dB +/- 2dB
Frequency Response & Distortion (measured with inverse RIAA curve applied to generator):Worst-case Loading (12K ohms, 1000pF):Frequency Response: 25Hz - 30KHz +/- 0.5dBTHD+N at 1KHz, 2Vrms output: Average Loading (47K ohms, 250pF)
Output: Maximum output voltage: (47K load, 1KHz, 0.5% THD): 40Vrms
Output Noise: (grounded input, 47K load, rms detector): 22Hz - 30KHz: < -59dB below 2Vrms output"A-weighted": < -69dB below 2Vrms output Effective Output Impedance: approx. 1300 ohms (1KHz)Input Impedance: 47.5K ohm maximum; lower with optional shunt resistors
Dimensions: 6.5 x 8.5 x 14.5 (HxWxD in inches)
Weight: 24 lbs.
Price: $2,700
Review By Dick Olsher
Information from Enjoy the Music.com
The Artemis Labs PH-1 Sound
For the past several years my phono system has evolved and crystallized to near perfection. Its foundation remains the Kuzma Stabi Reference turntable. Outfitted with the Graham Engineering model 2.2 tonearm and the RG-8 Gold MC cartridge, I've been enjoying the best analog sound ever. It was into this exalted front end that the PH-1 made its grand entrance. To be sure, my expectations did not run particularly high in view of its relatively modest asking price — at least in high-end terms. Holy Cow! Speak about a strong first impression, my head turned in its direction with newfound respect. Only once in a great while have I established an instant "bond" with the sound of an audio component. My first such love at first listen was the QUAD 57 loudspeaker with it's spacious, out-of-the-box, pristine midrange to die for. My conception of a loudspeaker's potential was changed forever by that first close encounter. It is a shame that QUAD has never sought to resurrect that classic. Contrary to many published opinions, I still regard the original as superior to later editions. Add the PH-1 to that select list. Audio suaveness is hard to define, but I know it when I hear it, and the PH-1 has it in spades.
Imagine tube heaven: tube smoothness with the transient agility and control of solid-state amplification. Throw in strong bass lines and a sure hand in unraveling microdynamic nuances and you have a pretty good idea of what I mean by suaveness. OK, it was time to settle down for a set of extended listening sessions. One of the sonic attributes I like to get an immediate handle on is tonal balance. It is not that I am fixated on tonal accuracy. To confess, I have always had a preference for a warm, full-bodied presentation. It's a question of quickly ascertaining a component's tonal color in order to be in a position of accommodating its personality. And the best method of deducing a front-end component's impact on the overall system sound is via substitutions downstream. I happened to have on hand three fine line stages, whose sound I was quite familiar with: the deHavilland Mercury (review pending), my own Blue Velvet, and Audio Consulting's Silver Rock Transformer Potentiometer. Listening to the sound of the PH-1 through each of these line stages allowed me to gauge the PH-1's intrinsic character. In essence, using each of them as a sonic mirror to determine if the PH-1 added or subtracted from the sound of the line stage.
With the deHavilland Mercury, the impression of neutrality and timbre fidelity carried through the rest of the chain. Two albums that are always near the top of the pile are Cleo Laine Live at Carnegie Hall (RCA LPL1-5015) and Mendelssohn's Violin Concerto with Itzhak Perlman [EMI ASD-2926]. Cleo Laine, no less than a Dame Commander of the British Empire, sounded spectacular on this occasion possessing exceptional timbre accuracy and focus. Perlman's playing was also a highlight, lyrical, poised, without excess. Violin overtones shone with just the right measure of sheen and sweetness. Another example, Lesley (VTL recording by David Manley) impressed with its effortless enunciation of musical lines, image focus, and dynamic range.
Switching over to the Blue Velvet brought about a much different midrange voicing. The big-tone sound of the RCA VT-231 was very much in evidence. Textures were coated with a "taste of honey." Orchestral foundation remained strong and well defined. Midrange textures were sweet and pure sounding. The soundstage perception was of an integrated organic whole with excellent width and depth. There was always plenty of low-level detail that helped to flesh out the ambient signature of each recording. Massed voices were easy to resolve. The listening perspective was neither forward nor too distant, being approximately Row M, to quote one of J. Gordon Holt's useful analogies. Complex musical passages were unraveled with ease. The dynamic scale from soft to loud unfolded as if shot from a catapult.
It's time to mention another couple favorites of mine. First, the self-titled Joan Baez [Vanguard VSD-2077]. If you are looking for a recording of a clear and enchanting soprano voice that can capture the emotional states of her folk material, then look no further. Aided by a simple acoustic arrangement, Ms. Baez's soulful voice resonated with meaning. Second, Taj Mahal's Recycling the Blues & Other Related Stuff [Columbia 31605], and in particular, the "Sweet Home Chicago" and "Texas Woman" tracks delivered plenty of satisfaction. There was plenty of testosterone in evidence. Taj Mahal's National steel-bodied guitar cut though the mix at Formula 1 speed and precision.
It was time for the Silver Rock. It too generated smooth and sweet harmonic textures, while managing to sound slightly less electronic than the Blue Velvet. However, without the latter's midband richness and bloom. It was time to jot down the conclusion that the PH-1 failed to impose a vintage tube personality on the sound. While possessing tube virtues such as sweetness of texture, it nonetheless did not tilt the Silver Rock toward an overly lush or romantic presentation. It clearly allowed the personality of the line stage to assert itself, as was clearly the case with the Blue Velvet. Therefore, should you desire a thicker more vivid harmonic palette than that offered by the PH-1, you have the option of inserting your favorite vintage tube stage into the chain. Bottom line: the PH-1 is tonally neutral. It sound is even without upper octave brightness, midrange bloat, or bass heaviness. But, as you may have guessed, suaveness is all about balance, detail, and musicality.
Review By Dick Olsher
Information from Enjoy the Music.com
The Artemis Labs PH-1 Technology
The Artemis Labs PH-1 is a tube-based, made-in-USA, all-triode, phono stage designed by John Atwood of One Electron™ fame. John has been involved in some high-powered tube design projects. For example, his work on the now defunct Fourier Components Sans Pareil and Triomph OTL amplifiers is well know to me. The PH-1 represents his latest thinking on subject - the result of several years of perfecting a simple yet extremely high quality phono stage, optimized for medium to high-output cartridges, either moving coil or moving magnet. While many affordable phono stages tend to be rather basic in conception and execution, this product features such a veritable cornucopia of interesting design aspects that I feel honor bound to do all of them justice, so please bear with me.
The Artemis Labs PH-1 takes its cue from the 5687 used in the output stage. This is a medium mu dual triode from the tube design team at Tung-Sol that was intended for industrial and military applications. It runs at a much higher filament current relative to other 9-pin miniatures, which is partially responsible for its linear response, and in its mil-spec version, is known for unit-to-unit consistency. Fortunately, it has seen little use in high-end tube gear and thus it is readily available at very reasonable prices. This is a tube that I also like a lot; it just sounds good even when driven hard.
A large (500 Hy) Lundahl choke is used for the 5687 plate load instead of a "Plain-Jane" resistor. It is a high-cost solution to the age-old quest for the ideal plate loading. A large plate resistor makes the tube behave like a current source, provides excellent power supply rejection, and generates the lowest distortion possible. Unfortunately, because the tube and plate resistor act as a voltage divider with respect to the high-voltage bias supply (B+), there is a practical limit to the plate resistance that may be used: the larger the plate resistor value, the higher B+ needs to be. Recall that a choke features a large AC impedance but a low DC resistance. Thus, from the tube's perspective, the choke appears as an ideal "infinite" resistance load to the audio signal without a significant drop in B+ voltage. Choke loading makes it possible to have your proverbial cake and eat it too: current source operation with a moderate plate supply of only 160 VDC.
Another benefit results from the fact that the choke is also an energy storage device, permitting plate voltage to swing to almost 100% above the B+ plate supply, doubling the 5687's headroom and accounting for its huge output voltage of over 40 V rms before clipping. The downsides, in addition to cost, are the need to shield the choke from magnetic fields (hum) and the required core size to avoid low-frequency distortion. The weight of the two chokes is reflected in the unit's weight, being quite substantial at 24 pounds.
The output stage is actually a two tube affair with a 12AX7 high-mu triode feeding the grid of the 5687. A modest amount of feedback (6dB) is used between the plate of the 5687 and cathode of the 12AX7 to stabilize the gain of the output stage and reduce the frequency response sensitivity to loading. In my opinion, this degree of inter-stage feedback is a good thing, and purists need not be concerned.
To quote Atwood, "the first stage is a low-noise "preamp" to bring the signal level up before hitting the passive equalization network. A high-transconductance tube with reasonably high gain is needed. I used to use 6DJ8s for this position in my old designs, but have come to dislike the sound of that tube. The Russian 6N1P sounds much better, and is quite low-noise, too." Being tasked with amplifying microvolt level signals, the input stage's design and execution are critical to the overall success of the phono stage. Low-noise operation is imperative. Passive parts are said to have been chosen carefully for low noise and minimum low-level nonlinearities. To get around the problems of cathode biasing and the typical electrolytic bypass capacitor, a single "N" alkaline cell is employed in the grid circuit to provide fixed bias. This allows the cathode of the 6N1P to be connected straight to ground. Being in the grid path, virtually no current is drawn, resulting in many years of battery life. It is important to note that any battery non-linearities are not manifested by the tube's current flow, which would have been the case had the battery been inserted in series with the cathode.
Atwood's philosophy is to use feedback very carefully. He says that phono stages with feedback-type equalization are especially prone to slew-rate distortion, due to high-energy high-frequency crud coming off the record. Thus, the PH-1 uses fully passive equalization, followed by a two-stage amplifier with limited feedback. This means that little high-frequency energy interacts with the feedback stage. EQ accuracy is said to be within +/-0.2dB. In order to achieve such an EQ tolerance, network capacitors are hand-selected on a precision impedance bridge to better than +/-0.5% accuracy.
A totally cool feature of the PH-1 is its Cool-Swap™ technology that facilitates cooler running tubes and provides a built-in spare. Since many dual triodes, including the 5687 and 12AX7 (but not the 6N1P), have split heaters it is possible to operate only a single triode section. In the Cool-swap configuration, one 5687 and one 12AX7 are used per channel, each with only one half heated. The right channel uses triode #1 and the left channel uses triode #2, the unused triode in each tube being essentially a spare. After a couple of thousand hours of use, you may want to swap the positions of the two 5687s and 12AX7s, thus bringing the unused spare triode into use. In other words, the left channel tube changes places with the right channel tube. You might say that Cool-Swap™ effectively doubles tube life, and since only half the tube is heated, these tubes run cooler, an important factor in the typically hot running 5687. Tube life is further enhanced by a soft heater turn-on and delayed application of high voltage. The B+ plate supply is delayed by about 40 seconds to give the tube heaters ample chance to warm-up without the chance of "cathode stripping." In addition, a muting relay shorts the audio outputs for about 4 seconds after high voltage is applied to allow transients to die away. Note that all time delay and regulation circuits use proven circuitry based on discrete semiconductor devices.
The power supply uses high-speed solid-state rectifiers for both the plate and heater supplies. A MOSFET based voltage regulator is used for each channel B+ rail to maintain a stable operating point, independent of power supply fluctuations.
All critical circuits in the audio path are wired point-to-point on military-style terminal boards which feature silver-plated turrets. According to designer Atwood, fiberglass FR-4 material has odd dielectric behavior, something that Tektronix found out in their oscilloscope designs. By using military-style terminal board construction and point-to-point wiring in the areas where high-impedance audio signals are present, the sonic effect of the PC board is minimized. Conventional fiber-glass PC boards are used for the power supply and for the rear panel jacks and switching. All film capacitors in the signal path are either polypropylene or silvered-mica types.
While moving-magnet phono cartridges are typically designed to work into a 47 kOhm load resistance, most moving coil cartridges sound their best into a much lower resistance and may even benefit from additional load capacitance. With almost all phono stages one is pretty much stuck with a fixed loading. Thus, unless you are handy with a soldering iron and probably willing to violate the product warranty, you have no chance to experiment with cartridge loading to squeeze out the best sound possible. Not so with the PH-1. In fact, it facilitates experimentation. A 47.5 kOhm resistor is hard-wired across the inputs of the PH-1. That's the starting point, but a 3M TexToolฎ ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) Socket, originally designed for the semiconductor industry, makes it very convenient to add shunt resistors or capacitors. Simply take the cover off and flip the lever out to open the socket. The top three positions of the ZIF socket are available for the right channel and the bottom three positions are for the left channel. Be sure to shorten the resistor legs and bend them to fit into the apertures. Closing the socket clamps the resistor/capacitor leads between gold-plated blades for a secure electrical connection. Note that any added resistance is in parallel with the fixed internal resistance of 47.5 kOhm. It was a good old-fashioned analog blast experimenting with my Symphonic Line RG-8 Gold cartridge, eventually settling on 681 Ohm shunt resistors (1/4 W, 1% Vishay/Dale metal-film), which give an effective load resistance of about 670 Ohm.The Artemis Labs PH-1 Phono Stage
It is ironic that 25 years after the launch of the standard CD by the Sony and Philips digital consortium vinyl LP sales have recently eclipsed those of the two high-resolution digital formats. The statistics are quite humbling. During 2004, vinyl exceeded the combined sales of DVD-Audio and SACD! If Sony had pinned its SACD hopes on the audiophile market they must be bitterly disappointed by now. 
Neither hardware nor software sales could be sustained by the high-enders. The mass market appears more interested in convenience per se rather than sound quality, opting for the ultra convenience of MP3s and the iPod. The public has spoken with its pocket book; one can only conclude that the vinyl LP is presently the leading consumer high-resolution audio format.
If you are reading this, you obviously must have more than a passing interest in good sound, and in particular, upgrading the performance of your vinyl playback system. So please stay tuned, the following is required reading for anyone interested in a remarkable phono stage at a reasonably affordable price. Featuring a nominal mid-band gain of about 50dB, the PH-1 should be able to accommodate even low-output (but not insanely low) moving-coil cartridges when used in conjunction with a line preamplifier of 10dB to 20dB of gain. I had no trouble at all obtaining more than enough gain with my Symphonic Line RG-8 gold cartridge, a low-output moving coil cartridge hand crafted by A. J. van den Hul.
- The Artemis Labs PH-1 Technology
- The Artemis Labs PH-1 Sound
- Artemis Labs PH-1 Specifications
- Artemis Labs PH-1 Company Information
Review By Dick Olsher
Information from Enjoy the Music.com
EI ECC83
The EI factory was bombed by NATO, but not heavily damaged. Because the city council of Nis is not run by the government party but by the opposition, Nis is one of only two cities to receive oil, but it may take years before any shipment of tubes makes it to NATO countries, due to embargo restrictions. Okay, enough about politics, let's talk about the ECC83. It misses just that little extra gain for power chords, but the weird thing is, it sounds almost as direct and in your face as the Chinese tubes. Maybe a good contender for holes 2 through 5, but not for the gain hole.
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
Tesla (Teslovak) 12AX7A
I'm not sure if this tube is exactly the same as the JJ 12AX7A. According to my information it is (same factory, just a name switch a couple of years ago), some state that they do hear differences between the Teslovak and the JJ. Anyway, it's supposed to be a near exact copy of the Telefunken ECC803, a tube I've never seen or heard, but the Teslovak surely looks like the Telefunken's mechanical description I was given (ECC88 alike). And the sound? Well, it has some nice transparent highs, especially when playing lead and clean. The lead has that nasal sound, but just like the Brimar it lacks some gain for playing power riffs. The rhythm sounds a little hollow.
Tungsram ECC83/12AX7
The Tungsram is the definite winner in several other 12AX7 shootouts, so I was curious how it would perform in my setup. There are some things I like about this tube, and other things that I don't. To start with the latter, I don't like the clean sound, too much bottom. The rhythm is a lot better, the mid's a little mushy but not hollow at all. The lead sound lacks some character, but it too has that same pleasant nasal feeling, and provides enough gain for playing staccato power chords.
National ECC82
This tube was sold to me as an ECC83. It's stamped 12AU7A/ECC83! Notice the box, it has a 12AU7A/ECC82 stamp on it, with an ECC83 sticker over it. I bought it anyway, assuming the relabeling was done after measuring the tube and concluding that this 12AU7A had specs closer to a 12AX7. Well, that wasn't true, it's just an ECC82 (looks like an ECC82 too). The sound is very direct, almost solid state. Maybe I'll have it checked out by a harp player with a tube amp I know.
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
Brimar CV4004
The CV4004 has the Brimar ECC83's asymmetrical look, but mirrored! The CV4004 has more highs and is louder. It delivers that extra punch to play staccato power chords. This one in the gain hole and the Brimar ECC83 in the second hole was slightly disappointing. The sound got too dark. What works well 'though, is using CV4004s in the first and second position. It's slightly less 3D than the Brimar ECC83.
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
3/16/08
Brimar ECC83
This one was a surprise. It was also in the box, but I'd never believe this was an ECC83 if it wasn't printed on. Too bad the print's got worse since I got the tube (I apologize to all the purists). The plates have single flanges, making them look asymmetrical. The Brimar has the nicest rhythm sound, tight and it doesn't suffer from being hollowish (like the Sovteks). The clean sound is rich and clear. The lead sounds rich, colorful and almost 3D, and yes, it has that nasal sound again. The only thing that the Brimar lacks is enough gain when playing thrash-like staccato power chords. This could be a matter of age. I've ordered two Brimar NOS 12AX7s, and will check if they provide more gain. If that's not the case, then trying this tube in the second hole with another tube with a higher gain (like the Valvo) in the first position could solve this problem (I had already tried this tube in the second position, with a Sovtek 12AX7LPS in the gain hole. This combination sounded as colorful as the Brimar in the first position with a Chinese tube in the second). If that fails too, then using some extra gain (like a, preferably tube-driven, overdrive pedal) might provide enough crunch for playing those power riffs.
Valvo ECC83
The Valvo was in the box too, and this one sounds a lot better. It provides a lot of gain, even more than the Sovteks. This tube also has a pleasing nasal sound when playing lead, but sounds better than the Sovteks when playing rhythm. It lacks some character, but doesn't sound mushy. The extra gain is especially significant when playing clean. I had to turn the volume on my guitar down to get a clean sound, which sounded good.
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
Philips Miniwatt ECC83
A friend of mine gave me a box full of tubes, including the Philips. All tubes were used, and this one didn't seem 100% anymore. It didn't provide enough gain. However, the tube tester indicated that this tube is alright. A second listening test made clear that this tube is more than OK. I didn't like this one in the gain hole 'though. Too many non-pleasing highs.
Audio-Voice 12AT7A
I bought this one because it has a lower mu than a 12AX7 (60 as opposed to 80-100), to tr
y it in the reverb follower or the phase inverter section, but it's also nice to try it in the gain hole. It left me with the same impression that the Chinese 12AX7A made: too direct and glassy but with less gain. Even the clean sounds weren't very pleasing.
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
3/14/08
Audio-Voice 12AX7A
I bought this tube as a spare for holes 2 through 5 (actually I bought four, because 
the Chinese factory doesn't make 12AX7 and 12AT7 tubes anymore). So I also tried this one in the gain hole. The most noticeable fact was that this tube sounds very direct, not exactly harsh or shrill, but loud, in your face. It produces very good clean sounds, but when playing lead and rhythm the amp sometimes doesn't sound like a tube amp anymore. The Audio-Voice may be great for other positions, but certainly not for the gain hole.
Sovtek 12AX7LPS
There are stories about people returning this tube, because they didn't see the filaments glow and thought it was defective. People, use your ears for listening, not your eyes! But they were right, it is hard to see if the tube's functioning, I had to stick my head in my amp to see some vague glowing. And the sound? A lot like the 12AX7WA, but brighter, and that's a plus with all types of sounds. The lead still has that nasal feeling (good), the rhythm is still a little hollow (not so good) and the clean sound is very rich and clear. One time during rehearsal I noticed that this tube is more microphonic than the 12AX7WA. I bought a tube damper, but due to the LPS's slightly bigger size it wouldn't fit! The 12AX7LPS scores a better overall than the 12AX7WA, but they both have problems with rhythm. Sovtek 12AX7WA
good, a little nasal (in a positive way). As stated before, the humbuckers on my guitar are very hard for playing crunchy rhythm, and the 12AX7WA has major problems with this. The rhythm sound also tends to get hollow. The clean sound is good, with enough richness and clearity. I'm not sure if Rivera amps are still shipped with this tube, mine's a few years old. Preamp Tubes Review
Introduction
Preamp tubes come in different models, types and brands. The most popular for nowadays guitar amps is the 12AX7/ECC83. I've collected and tried a few preamp tubes, and noticed that different types and different brands do sound different. Different enough to write the umpteenth 12AX7 shootout, something nobody wants to read. So why did I write this story anyway? Simply because I needed a reference for myself, and my homepage seemed more organized than my desk.
I'm not striving for the ultimate sound. I've just made an inventory and tried some possibilities, not determined to go in a particular direction, but also trying out not so obvious combinations of tubes. Furthermore, I didn't care about measuring the tubes. Measurements can't tell a thing about the musical capability of tubes. It's all about what you hear, not about the characteristics that you see on an oscilloscope.
The guitar used was a Gibson The Paul SL with standard humbuckers. The neck pickup (490R) was used for the clean sounds (by turning down the guitar volume), the bridge pickup (498T) for the overdriven sounds. Both humbuckers are difficult to amplify, they have very compressed mids. Especially an overdriven rhythm sound - which doesn't sound mushy - is hard to accomplish. Lead and clean are a lot easier. The amp was a standard Rivera R100-212, it has two different sounding channels (Marshall and Fender). Lead, rhythm and clean were tested on both channels. So far only the gain hole (it uses five preamp tubes) was used for testing the tubes. The reference tubes used were one Sovtek 12AX7WA in the gain hole, four Chinese 12AX7s, and four Sovtek EL34WXT power tubes. These were also the tubes the amp came with.
Now before you read my results and start complaining about the low scientific value of this review: testing tubes by listening to them, as opposed to measuring, is prone to becoming highly subjective. Feel free to disagree with me. Please e-mail me if you decide to write your own review. Let your ears be the judge.
- Sovtek 12AX7WA
- Sovtek 12AX7LPS
- Audio-Voice 12AX7A
- Audio-Voice 12AT7A
- Philips Miniwatt ECC83
- Valvo ECC83
- Brimar ECC83
- Brimar CV4004
- National ECC82
- Tungsram ECC83/12AX7
- Tesla (Teslovak) 12AX7A
- EI ECC83
Information from http://www.fbk.eur.nl/BIT/MHM/gear/preamptubes.html
2/22/08
JJ E34L / EL34
A good general purpose EL34. As previously mentioned, the sound is well balanced with tight bass response and great mids. Early on we had issues with mechanical noise however later stock has been much improved and noise is no longer a worry. Information from thetubestore.com
Winged "C" / SED
well spent. There is ample bass response but it is firm and controlled. The mids are smooth and the top end shimmers. Nice swirling harmonic content. The construction of the tube is outstanding and I feel it contributes to the overall performance. Lots of clean headroom from this tube with a smooth transition into breakup. Probably great in home audio applications, but if you want raunch at lower volume levels keep reading. Information from thetubestore.com
Svetlana EL34
nd the high end is smooth. The bottom end response is not the best, but in a guitar amp it becomes a moot point. In the test amp the mids just rip through the mix. No guitar player is going to get lost in the mix using these bottles. These tubes deliver incredible crunch making them perfect for that ZZ Top, old EVH sound. Seven string down-strokers may not be as pleased because they don't have that crushing deep bottom end. (Note: the amp used for this review was done in a 100 watt Marshall JMP) Information from thetubestore.com
Sovtek EL34WXT
Sovtek has come a long way with this tube since the EL34G. Construction has been improv
ed greatly reducing mechanical noise. Very good sound but not in the same range as the Svetlana. It seems as if the frequency response has been shifted toward the midrange band. Harmonics are rich and fairly balanced but the high end can get a bit bright. Great in a darker sounding amplifier.
Information from thetubestore.com
Shuguang EL34-B
rk of this quality. The construction of this tube is first class, with a well-supported plate structure that rests in a large straight bottle that tapers to a well finished brown base. These tubes represent a very solid piece of construction with almost no mechanical noise and an overall feeling of quality.The sound is loud and clear with a very nice sonic range. Not excessive in tops, mids, or bass, they are accurately described as well balanced. The sample tested had no audible microphonics and an average background noise level. Harmonic content was rich, lending that pleasant "swirl" and sustain that guitar players crave. Information from thetubestore.com
JJ KT77
the design and released their own version. To my ears it sounds a lot like a 6L6 but has the heater current, max plate voltage and output rating of an EL34. The JJ KT77 has published specs that are identical to the original Genalex specs. The base has pin 1 included but there is no connection to any internal element. The sound is somewhere between an EL34 and a 6L6. Overall a nice balance of tone in bass, midrange and treble. The breakup is earlier than a 6L6 with more compression but not as compressed as the EL34. Unlike an EL34 this tube can be used in place of a 6L6 in Fender amps with minimal modifications. Vintage Fender amps usually use pins 1 and 6 as tie-off points for input grids and screen grids, mounting resistors on the socket. A standard EL34 can’t be plugged in because the input grid would be shorted to the suppressor grid via pin one. The KT77 avoids this. The only caveats are to ensure that your power transformer can supply an extra 500ma of heater current per tube and that the range of bias voltage adjustment is correct. If you have a Marshall amp and find EL34’s too compressed and 6550’s too crunchy the JJ KT77 may be just the ticket.Information from thetubestore.com
Electro Harmonix 6CA7-EH
the old EI tubes and are probably my favorite tubes for Hiwatt guitar amplifiers. It’s like they were made for each other. These tubes are like EL34’s on steroids. They handle high voltage and current without problems. As mentioned, there is nothing like a Hiwatt head powered by 6CA7 tubes and driving a 4x12 cab loaded with Fane speakers. This is classic rock tone at its finest. It’s the sound of Pete Townsend and The Who. The 6CA7 has more headroom than an EL34 and by the time you get it really crunchy sounding your pants are flapping in the breeze. Just the right amount of compression for great thick rock tone. Biasing levels can be dialed in from warm to hot without causing significant tonal changes. The EH is well constructed and should not pose any noise problems. If using these tubes in more reasonable systems the EH 6CA7 is capable of some really nice clean tones thanks to that extra headroom. If you want early Van Halen, these are not the tubes for you. If you want something loud and proud, you want to put the EH 6CA7 in your amp.Information from thetubestore.com
EL34 Tube Type Review
Review Notes
Tube reviews written by John Templeton.
It’s not easy evaluating something as subjective as sound. We each have our own personal taste in music and the way it sounds. I have attempted to add some objectivity by defining some aspects of tube performance that affect any listener, regardless of application, budget or musical taste. The EL34 is a very popular tube and is used in equipment that creates as well as reproduces music. This testing was done using tube guitar amplifiers. With this in mind, consideration has been given to construction quality and mechanical noise. These factors are important to musicians but may not be an issue when a tube is used in the home or studio.
Test Amps:
1973 Marshall Super Lead model 1959 This amp is completely stock using NOS pre-amp tubes. The sound was reproduced through a 1971 Marshal cabinet with 4 Celestion G12M "greenback" speakers.
Class A Combo Designed and built by Bernard Raunig. This is a true single ended class A amplifier, using a 5Y3 rectifier and a single 5691 pre-amp tube. With a volume and single tone control this amp really lets you hear the tonal differences between the tubes.
Information from thetubestore.com
2/21/08
Tesla / JJ EL84
This tube has been a personal favorite of mine so the review is not entirely unbiased. With the JJ you seem to get a compromise between tone and reliability. Nice mids, sparkling highs and solid bottom end characterize this tube. From a construction standpoint I think JJ has hit the mark. As with any EL84 they can be prone to mechanical noise in combo amps. However, they seem to take the heat and vibration in stride without any negative tonal effects. In the AC30 the JJ tubes really delivered the VOX chime with lots of swirl and shimmery harmonic content. In the little Pro Junior just crank it up and you get a great, nasty, overdriven sound. That’s not bad, it’s good. When pushed hard into the land of the square wave they remind me a lot of a good 6V6. If you have tried the OEM Sovtek’s that shipped in your amp it’s worth your time to try a set of JJ EL84’s. Many convert and never go back. In cathode biased amps you can generally plug and play for that hot creamy “woman tone” that so many desire.
Information from thetubestore.com
TAD EL84-STR
The STR designation tells us that this was a Special Tube Request by the Tube Amp Doctor. In all honesty it looks and sounds like a pretty radical take on the EL84. The dimensions of this tube deserve your attention. Most tubes made in the U.S., England and Germany were built to a standard size. I often compare the new breed of EL84’s to the 1964 G.E. Essential Tube Characteristics Handbook. The TAD EL84STR is about a quarter inch shorter than any EL84 on the market and falls below the minimum GE spec of 2.344 inches. You may have to modify or adjust spring and clip type retainers for the shorter bottle. These are beefy bottles as well, with a measured maximum width of .874 inches. The GE specification is a maximum value of.875 inches. The TAD EL84STR also has the largest plate structure of any EL84 you can buy. I won’t give any more specs. Just trust me on this one, it’s enormous! There is very little clearance between the plate and the bottle and they get hot! This tube has the deepest bass, the highest highs and strident mids. In short, they sound a lot like a premium 6V6. No smooth creamy distortion here but tons of rock and roll crunch. If your bored with your normal EL84 tone these are definitely tubes to consider. Not recommended for some VOX amps as well as some smaller Mesa Boogie amps due to size issues.
Information from thetubestore.com
Russian EL84M
Some people will swear that the “M” stands for military but I’m not convinced. They look pretty much the same on the outside as normal Sovtek ‘84’s but there has to be something extra happening. The M’s seem less prone to mechanical noise and will do much better at surviving the VOX torture test. I loaded up the AC30 with a quad of EL84M’s and found that they could be run for a couple of hours without overheating. The Heat/Cool cycle still has some affect on life but the 84M lasted longer in this environment than the standard fare. A good choice if you have a cathode biased amp or like your tubes biased to more than 70% of idle dissipation.You do pay a sonic and financial price for the EL84M. They are more expensive than the standard EL84 but will last longer. Sonically they are a bit of a different animal. People refer to them as sounding stiffer or more strident with more headroom and may not like the breakup characteristics when pushed. It is really a personal judgement call. If standard EL84’s have been a problem due to heat or noise and you find they don’t last as long as you would like, try the EL84M and see what you think of the tone. In my opinion they are worth the extra money for reliability and the tone is still classic EL84.
Information from thetubestore.com
Sovtek EL84
- The Sovtek EL84 has been a staple for Fender, Boogie, Crate, Peavey and other manufacturers of tube amps using the ’84. This tube really is a good value. It is predictable, reliable and affordable. You can get good EL84 tone at a reasonable price. The Sovtek EL84 has been around a long time, and it has shown continuous improvement over the years. Using a matched set of properly biased tubes will yield a clear smooth sound that is fairly warm and transitions into a smooth breakup with that singing tone that EL84’s are known for. In cathode biased amps like the VOX they get a premium workout and will suffer some effects from heating and cooling. Being prone to mechanical noise in a combo amp, the EL84 is not recommended for amps with poor air circulation. The heating/cooling cycle inside an AC30 easy-bake oven seems to loosen up the mechanical structures within the tube causing them to become very noisy (mechanically) with time. This is true of any amp that uses an EL84 in a poorly ventilated chassis/cabinet arrangement, so if this is your rig, go for the JJ or Russian EL84M.In the Fender Blues Junior the tubes can really put out respectable volume and great tone for all types of music. The highs are not harsh, the mids are warm and the bottom end is not lacking. If you want to really scream try a Pro Junior with full volume. Very crunchy yet smooth with great singing sustain. I personally like my tubes biased at 60% or 70% of static dissipation and the Sovtek EL84 performed well in this range.
Information from thetubestore.com
Electro Harmonix EL84-EH Review
For most applications this is a good bet. The sound of these tubes is very smooth when biased correctly. Tonally, it’s hard to go wrong. They are pleasant to listen to and have the creamy overdrive most people look for in an EL84. They have a nice chime but it’s not overbearing. It looks a lot like the standard Sovtek but a closer inspection will reveal differences. The plate looks a bit more polished with a different coating and internally they feature precisely wrapped grid wires with a bright metal shine. The only problem with this tube is that like the Sovtek and TAD product, they are tubby. The fattest one I measured was .886 inches thick against the G.E. maximum width spec of .875 inches. For most purchasers this will not be an issue. If you have an amp that requires the tube to pass through a hole in the chassis before the pins seat in the socket you should measure the diameter of that hole. If you’re still unsure, the JJ EL84 is the closest in dimensional specs to NOS measurements and the G.E. standards for the 6BQ5.
Information from thetubestore.com
EL84 Tube Type Review
Review Notes
Tube reviews written by John Templeton.
For these tests I was lucky enough to secure the loan of some classic amps and some modern gear as well. The test amps used in this round included:1961 VOX AC30 – No top boostMid 60’s VOX AC10 – TwinFender Blues JuniorFender Pro JuniorAll of these amps are combos and put maximum stress on power tubes when it comes to physical vibration and heat build up. The VOX AC30 should have a health warning for tubes since I have yet to encounter a harsher environment to operate in. I know that a lot of Boogie fans would like to hear how these tubes fared in the .22 Caliber and other smaller Boogies. Trust me, you can’t handle the truth. On with the show.There has not been a lot of space devoted to this tube in the past. The main reason was that current production provided a limited selection. Let’s forget about New Old Stock for the time being. They’re out there, they are expensive and sometimes represent the dregs of production.
The Complete Reviews
Electro Harmonix EL84-EH
Sovtek EL84
Russian EL84M
TAD EL84-STR
Tesla / JJ EL84
Information from thetubestore.com
2/19/08
Ei 12AX7 Review.
This tube should win an award for best and worst in class. The first one I tried squealed in the combo amp and produced a ringing sound in the half-stack. (Remember these were not from the pre-screened tubes that thetubestore.com sells.) The second one I tried was fantastic. There were no microphonics problems with this second tube. The scores for microphonics (2 and 4) are for each individual tube that was tested. A few phone calls to another tech confirmed my suspicion: there is a high failure rate when initially screening these tubes for microphonics. The ones that do pass testing are wonderful; they are very musical sounding with lots of gain and a very low noise floor. When playing the guitar you could really get the benefit of their dynamic range. They can reproduce soft passages accentuated with a sharp punch and you don't have to go near the volume controls. I'm keeping the test tube for some long term testing. These would be great tubes for home audio applications. Due to the microphonics problem, I'm unsure as to their roadworthiness. At home or in the studio, they will deliver great results. The only caveats are; make sure they are carefully screened and don't think about using them in high gain combo's unless they are tested in a similar amp first.
Information from thestoretube.com
Tesla / JJ 12AX7 / ECC83-S Review.
This tube sports a different plate design than found in most 12AX7's. When you look at them you can't help but think that they must be rugged and good for the musician on the road. The compact plate structure does nothing to dampen their sound or dynamic response. I find them to be well balanced. While not as harmonically rich as others I tested, they do provide high gain without the usual noise and microphonic problems you would expect. This is great sound for your dollar. If you're using a combo amp and find the Philips a little rich sounding, the JJ ECC83 may be your solution.
Information from thestoretube.com
JAN-Philips 5751 Review.
While not really a 12AX7, it shares the same pin-out arrangement and is designed for less gain in favor of lower noise and microphonics. It worked well in both test amps and can be used to advantage if your amp has too much grind. One of these should calm things down a bit. The 5751 is an affordable alternative to the 12AY7 used in original Fender tweed amps and can be subbed for a 12AT7 like a reverb driver tube. In this application, you will get good gain with a warmer sound than the 12AT7. The even balancing makes them a nice phase inverter and allows you push the front end of the amp a little harder.
Information from thestoretube.com
JAN-Philips 12AX7WA Review.
If you really want NOS (New Old Stock) tubes, this is one of the best buys out there. The Philips tube is well built and should be long lasting. The tubes I tested had lots of gain while still maintaining very good noise levels and good tolerance for microphonics. The tone was solid in the midrange with very wide dynamic response. If you're not careful with your setup, you can get these tubes to be boomy in the bottom end and shrill in the high end. I found that they were great with the tone controls set flat. Great in both combo amps and monster stacks.
Information from thestoretube.com
Sovtek 5751 Review.
The Sovtek 5751 is an affordable alternative to the 12AY7 used in original Fender tweed amps and can be subbed for a 12AT7 reverb driver tube. In this application, you will get good gain with a warmer sound than the 12AT7. The even balancing makes them a nice phase inverter and allows you push the front end of the amp a little harder. If you wish to use a 5751 in a 12AX7 position to reduce gain we recommend you use the JAN-Philips 5751 tube.
Information from thestoretube.com
Sovtek 12AX7-LPS Review.
This is an entirely new design from Sovtek and a great step up in sound quality. They have very large ribbed plates and great sound reproduction. I found them very smooth and well balanced in terms of bass, mids and treble response. The large plates make them more prone to microphonics and in combo amps, so they can be a problem if you like to run things wide open. It is still the best thing Sovtek has produced in a 12AX7, with very good gain and low noise. I would advise against using them in compact high-powered combo amps where they will be subjected to lots of vibration. One other note about the construction of these tubes is they have filaments that are almost completely encased in the plate structure. They often don't "light up" when working properly. This is not a problem, it's normal for the LPS.
Information from thestoretube.com
Sovtek 12AX7-WA, 12AX7-WB Review.
I've grouped these two together because they have essentially the same sound. The only noticeable difference between the two was a bit more gain from the WB model. These tubes are rugged little brutes, and that's probably why they are OEM components for many major amp makers. Both tubes could be whacked with a stick at full volume and not show much in the way of microphonics - but DON'T DO THIS AT HOME, as it is often a destructive test for tubes. They don't have the best sound in this type, being prone to the occasional pop or tick. The sound quality lacked any real character but was acceptable. If the budget is tight, their affordability will be attractive. Also, keep in mind that many amp designers design the equipment to sound best with the tubes they will use in production. I have a friend that claims his amp only sounds right using Chinese pre-amp tubes, but your mileage may vary on this issue. If you like the Sovteks then go for it, particularly if you will use them in high gain applications with lots of effects.
Information from thestoretube.com
Electro-Harmonix 12AX7 Review.
These are not relabelled Sovtek 12AX7-LPS tubes. There is a marked difference in construction and performance. The 12AX7 EH has a nice balanced sound, fairly low noise floor and excellent performance in terms of microphonics. The lack of microphonics may be in part from the return of the shorter plate structure or materials. I've had some samples that were tried in various amp stages. Pre-amps, tone stacks and phase inverters, a winner in every location, although I like to use a 12AT7 for reverb circuit drivers due to their lower gain rating (just a personal preference of mine). I have used the EH to successfully tame amps that defied all other attempts to kill microphonics and unwanted feedback. This tube is a winner, buy 'em and try 'em, they may be just the piece you've been looking for.
Information from thestoretube.com
Mullard 12AX7 / ECC83 Reissue Review.
This is a nice tube but in my opinion better suited to home audio than guitar amps. The tubes have well balanced triode pairs and a very even flat response. Compared to a Tung Sol it sounds a bit flat, but so does a NOS Mullard. Microphonics are not an issue despite the larger that average plate structure. The transconductance on my sample was the same as two NOS samples I measured. Not really high gain at all, but a real good noise floor and a nice smooth tone that doesn’t encourage ear fatigue the way some preamps can be. The Tung-Sol 12AX7 is my favorite preamp for guitars because it accentuates highs and lows. The Mullard adds virtually no tone coloring and is smoother sounding to my ear that a JJ ECC83S. For hi-fi gear the Mullard will likely be a winner but there are better choices for guitar amps for less money.
Informaition from thestoretube.com
Tung-Sol 12AX7 Reviews
There are only so many ways to describe tube tone and most have become clich้'s. The Tung-Sol 12AX7 has the gain and drive of a Chinese 12AX7 and the pure tone of a Mullard or Brimar from the U.K. I've had two people come to me recently with amps they thought were in need of complete overhauls. In both cases, careful examination revealed no serious problems and all the tubes "tested" as good. At the end of the day, I replaced the NOS Mullard and RCA pre-amps (one in each amp) with a reissue Tung-Sol 12AX7. In both cases the owners were very impressed and thought that their amps had been restored to full health. Believe it or Not.
Information from thetubestore.com
12AX7 Tube Type Review
Review Notes Guitar Amp Tube Reviews written by John Templeton.
The tubes used in this review were selected at random from thetubestore.com's inventory of untested tubes. For each tube used in the test, two were taken since there was no pre-screening involved. The aim was to get a sample that would be practical to work with but allow for variations in the tubes or prevent picking the only dud in a lot.The test amplifiers used were very different. One was a 100-watt Trace Elliot Speed King with 4 x 12 cabinet, and the other was a Fender Blues Junior combo amp. This allows the high power, high gain crowd and the more conservative players to get the fairest evaluation possible. Some tubes were clearly better suited in one application or usable in both. All tubes were used at the input amplifier stage of the amp since this seems to be where most people develop their perceptions of how good a pre-amp tube is.
What Makes A Good Tube? The musical detail or ability to reproduce the sound of the instrument is a key factor in assessing a tube for guitar amplifiers. There is no perfect tube available. Each one has strengths, weaknesses and certain factors that contribute to its overall ratings. Usually a compromise is arrived at in the search for premium tone. All tubes will exhibit some degree of microphonics. Microphonics do not mean that a tube is unusable. You just have to screen them a little closer and determine where they are best suited for use. Input pre-amps are the most sensitive areas of the amplifier. When used in this application most tubes will generate some noise if you tap on them with a pencil during operation. Keep in mind that doing so can actually damage the tube and make it more microphonic or cause it to fail if you hit it real hard. Although they are screened prior to shipment a tube is an electromechanical device and can be damaged during shipment. A microphonic tube will ring, howl or produce general feedback problems. It will be more noticeable at louder volumes or when used in close proximity to a speaker, typically in combo amps. If the tube has good tone at lower volumes and is free from unwanted noise, you use it in a less sensitive part of the circuit, such as tone recovery or phase inverter applications.
Noise is more of a problem than microphonics. A noisy tube will make random popping noises, crackle occasionally or just hum. All tubes have a certain noise floor; this is the inherent background noise that the tube makes in operation. Typically, you will notice this as a soft hiss or "white noise". Tubes designed for high gain can exhibit more background noise. Other components can cause noise problems that may be blamed on a bad tube. Plate resistors are notorious for causing hiss and crackling as they age and begin to fail. A new tube may better amplify these defects, so try substituting another new tube to be sure of the source of the noise.
Information from thetubestore.com
