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Information from thetubestore.com
Sovtek has come a long way with this tube since the EL34G. Construction has been improved greatly reducing mechanical noise. Very good sound but not in the same range as the Svetlana. It seems as if the frequency response has been shifted toward the midrange band. Harmonics are rich and fairly balanced but the high end can get a bit bright. Great in a darker sounding amplifier.
Review Notes
Tube reviews written by John Templeton.
It’s not easy evaluating something as subjective as sound. We each have our own personal taste in music and the way it sounds. I have attempted to add some objectivity by defining some aspects of tube performance that affect any listener, regardless of application, budget or musical taste. The EL34 is a very popular tube and is used in equipment that creates as well as reproduces music. This testing was done using tube guitar amplifiers. With this in mind, consideration has been given to construction quality and mechanical noise. These factors are important to musicians but may not be an issue when a tube is used in the home or studio.
Test Amps:
1973 Marshall Super Lead model 1959 This amp is completely stock using NOS pre-amp tubes. The sound was reproduced through a 1971 Marshal cabinet with 4 Celestion G12M "greenback" speakers.
Class A Combo Designed and built by Bernard Raunig. This is a true single ended class A amplifier, using a 5Y3 rectifier and a single 5691 pre-amp tube. With a volume and single tone control this amp really lets you hear the tonal differences between the tubes.
Information from thetubestore.com
This tube has been a personal favorite of mine so the review is not entirely unbiased. With the JJ you seem to get a compromise between tone and reliability. Nice mids, sparkling highs and solid bottom end characterize this tube. From a construction standpoint I think JJ has hit the mark. As with any EL84 they can be prone to mechanical noise in combo amps. However, they seem to take the heat and vibration in stride without any negative tonal effects. In the AC30 the JJ tubes really delivered the VOX chime with lots of swirl and shimmery harmonic content. In the little Pro Junior just crank it up and you get a great, nasty, overdriven sound. That’s not bad, it’s good. When pushed hard into the land of the square wave they remind me a lot of a good 6V6. If you have tried the OEM Sovtek’s that shipped in your amp it’s worth your time to try a set of JJ EL84’s. Many convert and never go back. In cathode biased amps you can generally plug and play for that hot creamy “woman tone” that so many desire.
Information from thetubestore.com
The STR designation tells us that this was a Special Tube Request by the Tube Amp Doctor. In all honesty it looks and sounds like a pretty radical take on the EL84. The dimensions of this tube deserve your attention. Most tubes made in the U.S., England and Germany were built to a standard size. I often compare the new breed of EL84’s to the 1964 G.E. Essential Tube Characteristics Handbook. The TAD EL84STR is about a quarter inch shorter than any EL84 on the market and falls below the minimum GE spec of 2.344 inches. You may have to modify or adjust spring and clip type retainers for the shorter bottle. These are beefy bottles as well, with a measured maximum width of .874 inches. The GE specification is a maximum value of.875 inches. The TAD EL84STR also has the largest plate structure of any EL84 you can buy. I won’t give any more specs. Just trust me on this one, it’s enormous! There is very little clearance between the plate and the bottle and they get hot! This tube has the deepest bass, the highest highs and strident mids. In short, they sound a lot like a premium 6V6. No smooth creamy distortion here but tons of rock and roll crunch. If your bored with your normal EL84 tone these are definitely tubes to consider. Not recommended for some VOX amps as well as some smaller Mesa Boogie amps due to size issues.
Information from thetubestore.com
Some people will swear that the “M” stands for military but I’m not convinced. They look pretty much the same on the outside as normal Sovtek ‘84’s but there has to be something extra happening. The M’s seem less prone to mechanical noise and will do much better at surviving the VOX torture test. I loaded up the AC30 with a quad of EL84M’s and found that they could be run for a couple of hours without overheating. The Heat/Cool cycle still has some affect on life but the 84M lasted longer in this environment than the standard fare. A good choice if you have a cathode biased amp or like your tubes biased to more than 70% of idle dissipation.You do pay a sonic and financial price for the EL84M. They are more expensive than the standard EL84 but will last longer. Sonically they are a bit of a different animal. People refer to them as sounding stiffer or more strident with more headroom and may not like the breakup characteristics when pushed. It is really a personal judgement call. If standard EL84’s have been a problem due to heat or noise and you find they don’t last as long as you would like, try the EL84M and see what you think of the tone. In my opinion they are worth the extra money for reliability and the tone is still classic EL84.
Information from thetubestore.com
- The Sovtek EL84 has been a staple for Fender, Boogie, Crate, Peavey and other manufacturers of tube amps using the ’84. This tube really is a good value. It is predictable, reliable and affordable. You can get good EL84 tone at a reasonable price. The Sovtek EL84 has been around a long time, and it has shown continuous improvement over the years. Using a matched set of properly biased tubes will yield a clear smooth sound that is fairly warm and transitions into a smooth breakup with that singing tone that EL84’s are known for. In cathode biased amps like the VOX they get a premium workout and will suffer some effects from heating and cooling. Being prone to mechanical noise in a combo amp, the EL84 is not recommended for amps with poor air circulation. The heating/cooling cycle inside an AC30 easy-bake oven seems to loosen up the mechanical structures within the tube causing them to become very noisy (mechanically) with time. This is true of any amp that uses an EL84 in a poorly ventilated chassis/cabinet arrangement, so if this is your rig, go for the JJ or Russian EL84M.In the Fender Blues Junior the tubes can really put out respectable volume and great tone for all types of music. The highs are not harsh, the mids are warm and the bottom end is not lacking. If you want to really scream try a Pro Junior with full volume. Very crunchy yet smooth with great singing sustain. I personally like my tubes biased at 60% or 70% of static dissipation and the Sovtek EL84 performed well in this range.
Information from thetubestore.com
For most applications this is a good bet. The sound of these tubes is very smooth when biased correctly. Tonally, it’s hard to go wrong. They are pleasant to listen to and have the creamy overdrive most people look for in an EL84. They have a nice chime but it’s not overbearing. It looks a lot like the standard Sovtek but a closer inspection will reveal differences. The plate looks a bit more polished with a different coating and internally they feature precisely wrapped grid wires with a bright metal shine. The only problem with this tube is that like the Sovtek and TAD product, they are tubby. The fattest one I measured was .886 inches thick against the G.E. maximum width spec of .875 inches. For most purchasers this will not be an issue. If you have an amp that requires the tube to pass through a hole in the chassis before the pins seat in the socket you should measure the diameter of that hole. If you’re still unsure, the JJ EL84 is the closest in dimensional specs to NOS measurements and the G.E. standards for the 6BQ5.
Information from thetubestore.com
Review Notes
Tube reviews written by John Templeton.
For these tests I was lucky enough to secure the loan of some classic amps and some modern gear as well. The test amps used in this round included:1961 VOX AC30 – No top boostMid 60’s VOX AC10 – TwinFender Blues JuniorFender Pro JuniorAll of these amps are combos and put maximum stress on power tubes when it comes to physical vibration and heat build up. The VOX AC30 should have a health warning for tubes since I have yet to encounter a harsher environment to operate in. I know that a lot of Boogie fans would like to hear how these tubes fared in the .22 Caliber and other smaller Boogies. Trust me, you can’t handle the truth. On with the show.There has not been a lot of space devoted to this tube in the past. The main reason was that current production provided a limited selection. Let’s forget about New Old Stock for the time being. They’re out there, they are expensive and sometimes represent the dregs of production.
The Complete Reviews
Electro Harmonix EL84-EH
Sovtek EL84
Russian EL84M
TAD EL84-STR
Tesla / JJ EL84
Information from thetubestore.com
This tube should win an award for best and worst in class. The first one I tried squealed in the combo amp and produced a ringing sound in the half-stack. (Remember these were not from the pre-screened tubes that thetubestore.com sells.) The second one I tried was fantastic. There were no microphonics problems with this second tube. The scores for microphonics (2 and 4) are for each individual tube that was tested. A few phone calls to another tech confirmed my suspicion: there is a high failure rate when initially screening these tubes for microphonics. The ones that do pass testing are wonderful; they are very musical sounding with lots of gain and a very low noise floor. When playing the guitar you could really get the benefit of their dynamic range. They can reproduce soft passages accentuated with a sharp punch and you don't have to go near the volume controls. I'm keeping the test tube for some long term testing. These would be great tubes for home audio applications. Due to the microphonics problem, I'm unsure as to their roadworthiness. At home or in the studio, they will deliver great results. The only caveats are; make sure they are carefully screened and don't think about using them in high gain combo's unless they are tested in a similar amp first.
Information from thestoretube.com
This tube sports a different plate design than found in most 12AX7's. When you look at them you can't help but think that they must be rugged and good for the musician on the road. The compact plate structure does nothing to dampen their sound or dynamic response. I find them to be well balanced. While not as harmonically rich as others I tested, they do provide high gain without the usual noise and microphonic problems you would expect. This is great sound for your dollar. If you're using a combo amp and find the Philips a little rich sounding, the JJ ECC83 may be your solution.
Information from thestoretube.com
While not really a 12AX7, it shares the same pin-out arrangement and is designed for less gain in favor of lower noise and microphonics. It worked well in both test amps and can be used to advantage if your amp has too much grind. One of these should calm things down a bit. The 5751 is an affordable alternative to the 12AY7 used in original Fender tweed amps and can be subbed for a 12AT7 like a reverb driver tube. In this application, you will get good gain with a warmer sound than the 12AT7. The even balancing makes them a nice phase inverter and allows you push the front end of the amp a little harder.
Information from thestoretube.com
If you really want NOS (New Old Stock) tubes, this is one of the best buys out there. The Philips tube is well built and should be long lasting. The tubes I tested had lots of gain while still maintaining very good noise levels and good tolerance for microphonics. The tone was solid in the midrange with very wide dynamic response. If you're not careful with your setup, you can get these tubes to be boomy in the bottom end and shrill in the high end. I found that they were great with the tone controls set flat. Great in both combo amps and monster stacks.
Information from thestoretube.com
The Sovtek 5751 is an affordable alternative to the 12AY7 used in original Fender tweed amps and can be subbed for a 12AT7 reverb driver tube. In this application, you will get good gain with a warmer sound than the 12AT7. The even balancing makes them a nice phase inverter and allows you push the front end of the amp a little harder. If you wish to use a 5751 in a 12AX7 position to reduce gain we recommend you use the JAN-Philips 5751 tube.
Information from thestoretube.com
This is an entirely new design from Sovtek and a great step up in sound quality. They have very large ribbed plates and great sound reproduction. I found them very smooth and well balanced in terms of bass, mids and treble response. The large plates make them more prone to microphonics and in combo amps, so they can be a problem if you like to run things wide open. It is still the best thing Sovtek has produced in a 12AX7, with very good gain and low noise. I would advise against using them in compact high-powered combo amps where they will be subjected to lots of vibration. One other note about the construction of these tubes is they have filaments that are almost completely encased in the plate structure. They often don't "light up" when working properly. This is not a problem, it's normal for the LPS.
Information from thestoretube.com
I've grouped these two together because they have essentially the same sound. The only noticeable difference between the two was a bit more gain from the WB model. These tubes are rugged little brutes, and that's probably why they are OEM components for many major amp makers. Both tubes could be whacked with a stick at full volume and not show much in the way of microphonics - but DON'T DO THIS AT HOME, as it is often a destructive test for tubes. They don't have the best sound in this type, being prone to the occasional pop or tick. The sound quality lacked any real character but was acceptable. If the budget is tight, their affordability will be attractive. Also, keep in mind that many amp designers design the equipment to sound best with the tubes they will use in production. I have a friend that claims his amp only sounds right using Chinese pre-amp tubes, but your mileage may vary on this issue. If you like the Sovteks then go for it, particularly if you will use them in high gain applications with lots of effects.
Information from thestoretube.com
These are not relabelled Sovtek 12AX7-LPS tubes. There is a marked difference in construction and performance. The 12AX7 EH has a nice balanced sound, fairly low noise floor and excellent performance in terms of microphonics. The lack of microphonics may be in part from the return of the shorter plate structure or materials. I've had some samples that were tried in various amp stages. Pre-amps, tone stacks and phase inverters, a winner in every location, although I like to use a 12AT7 for reverb circuit drivers due to their lower gain rating (just a personal preference of mine). I have used the EH to successfully tame amps that defied all other attempts to kill microphonics and unwanted feedback. This tube is a winner, buy 'em and try 'em, they may be just the piece you've been looking for.
Information from thestoretube.com
This is a nice tube but in my opinion better suited to home audio than guitar amps. The tubes have well balanced triode pairs and a very even flat response. Compared to a Tung Sol it sounds a bit flat, but so does a NOS Mullard. Microphonics are not an issue despite the larger that average plate structure. The transconductance on my sample was the same as two NOS samples I measured. Not really high gain at all, but a real good noise floor and a nice smooth tone that doesn’t encourage ear fatigue the way some preamps can be. The Tung-Sol 12AX7 is my favorite preamp for guitars because it accentuates highs and lows. The Mullard adds virtually no tone coloring and is smoother sounding to my ear that a JJ ECC83S. For hi-fi gear the Mullard will likely be a winner but there are better choices for guitar amps for less money.
Informaition from thestoretube.com
There are only so many ways to describe tube tone and most have become clich้'s. The Tung-Sol 12AX7 has the gain and drive of a Chinese 12AX7 and the pure tone of a Mullard or Brimar from the U.K. I've had two people come to me recently with amps they thought were in need of complete overhauls. In both cases, careful examination revealed no serious problems and all the tubes "tested" as good. At the end of the day, I replaced the NOS Mullard and RCA pre-amps (one in each amp) with a reissue Tung-Sol 12AX7. In both cases the owners were very impressed and thought that their amps had been restored to full health. Believe it or Not.
Information from thetubestore.com
Review Notes Guitar Amp Tube Reviews written by John Templeton.
The tubes used in this review were selected at random from thetubestore.com's inventory of untested tubes. For each tube used in the test, two were taken since there was no pre-screening involved. The aim was to get a sample that would be practical to work with but allow for variations in the tubes or prevent picking the only dud in a lot.The test amplifiers used were very different. One was a 100-watt Trace Elliot Speed King with 4 x 12 cabinet, and the other was a Fender Blues Junior combo amp. This allows the high power, high gain crowd and the more conservative players to get the fairest evaluation possible. Some tubes were clearly better suited in one application or usable in both. All tubes were used at the input amplifier stage of the amp since this seems to be where most people develop their perceptions of how good a pre-amp tube is.
What Makes A Good Tube? The musical detail or ability to reproduce the sound of the instrument is a key factor in assessing a tube for guitar amplifiers. There is no perfect tube available. Each one has strengths, weaknesses and certain factors that contribute to its overall ratings. Usually a compromise is arrived at in the search for premium tone. All tubes will exhibit some degree of microphonics. Microphonics do not mean that a tube is unusable. You just have to screen them a little closer and determine where they are best suited for use. Input pre-amps are the most sensitive areas of the amplifier. When used in this application most tubes will generate some noise if you tap on them with a pencil during operation. Keep in mind that doing so can actually damage the tube and make it more microphonic or cause it to fail if you hit it real hard. Although they are screened prior to shipment a tube is an electromechanical device and can be damaged during shipment. A microphonic tube will ring, howl or produce general feedback problems. It will be more noticeable at louder volumes or when used in close proximity to a speaker, typically in combo amps. If the tube has good tone at lower volumes and is free from unwanted noise, you use it in a less sensitive part of the circuit, such as tone recovery or phase inverter applications.
Noise is more of a problem than microphonics. A noisy tube will make random popping noises, crackle occasionally or just hum. All tubes have a certain noise floor; this is the inherent background noise that the tube makes in operation. Typically, you will notice this as a soft hiss or "white noise". Tubes designed for high gain can exhibit more background noise. Other components can cause noise problems that may be blamed on a bad tube. Plate resistors are notorious for causing hiss and crackling as they age and begin to fail. A new tube may better amplify these defects, so try substituting another new tube to be sure of the source of the noise.
The 6P1P (Russian: 6П1П) is a Soviet-made miniature 9-pin beam tetrode vacuum tube with ratings similar to the 6AQ5, EL90 and the 6V6. Because of a different pinout (a 9-pin base versus 7-pin base) than an 6AQ5/EL90, it cannot be used as a plug-in replacement for these types, however, it will work in the same circuit with component values unchanged. Its maximum plate/screen voltage and dissipation ratings are actually slightly higher than a 6AQ5. A ruggedized/extended ratings version of the tube is designated 6P1P-EV (Russian: 6П1П-ЕВ) roughly equivalent to the 6AQ5W. A Chinese-manufactured version of the tube also exists, labeled 6P1.
The type was commonly used in Soviet-built vacuum tube radios and TV sets as an output audio amplifier, until it was replaced by the higher-performance 6P14P (EL84) tube.
The tube is no longer believed to be in production.
Also see 6AQ5, 6V6 and Russian tube designations.
The 6N3P (Russian: 6Н3П) is a Russian-made direct equivalent of the 2C51 vacuum tube. It is slightly larger in size than the American tube.
6N3P was widely used for FM band radio input unit stages (nearly all 1960s Soviet radios with FM band all employed the same input unit on a separate subchassis). Currently, it has some use in DIY preamps. A ruggedized/industrial version of the tube is designated 6N3P-EV (Russian: 6Н3П-ЕВ
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The 6N2P, (Russian: 6Н2П) also sometimes spelled in English "6H2Pi" is a miniature 9-pin dual triode vacuum tube manufactured in USSR, Russia and China with characteristics similar to the RCA 12AX7. The most significant difference between the two is that 6N2P has its two filament elements connected in parallel, unlike the series filament connection of the 12AX7, and it is thus only possible to operate it from a 6.3 volt, 300 mA filament supply (whereas a 12AX7 may be operated from either 6.3 or 12.6 volts.) The 6N2P also has slightly lower gain than a 12AX7.
The 6N3P (Russian: 6Н3П) is a Russian-made direct equivalent of the 2C51 vacuum tube. It is slightly larger in size than the American tube.
6N3P was widely used for FM band radio input unit stages (nearly all 1960s Soviet radios with FM band all employed the same input unit on a separate subchassis). Currently, it has some use in DIY preamps. A ruggedized/industrial version of the tube is designated 6N3P-EV (Russian: 6Н3П-ЕВ)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
6L6 is the designator for a vacuum tube introduced by Radio Corporation of America in July 1936. At the time Philips had already developed and patented power pentode designs, which were fast replacing power triodes due to their greater efficiency.
The 6DJ8 is a miniature 9-pin medium gain dual triode vacuum tube. It is distinguished by its very high transconductance, mostly the result of its frame grid construction.
The EL34 is a vacuum tube of the pentode type. It has an octal base (indicated by the '3' in the part number) and is found mainly in the final output stages of amplification circuits. The American RETMA tube designation number for this tube is 6CA7. Russian analog is 6p27s (Cyrillic: 6п27с
The 6AQ5 is a miniature 7-pin output pentode. The ratings are very similar to the 6V6 at 250V and is commonly used as an output audio amplifier in tube TV's and radios. It is also known under its Mullard-Philips tube designation EL90. A version of the tube with extended ratings for industrial application is designated 6AQ5A and 6005W.
Other close or equivalent tube types are: 6HG5, 6HR5, N727, CV1862 and the Tesla 6L31.
Also see 6V6 and 6P1P. Note: The 6P1P has a 9 pins and will NOT fit the 6AQ5 7 pin base.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The 300B is a directly heated power triode using a four pin base, introduced by Western Electric in 1937 to amplify telephone signals. It measures 6.4 inches high and 2.4 inches wide. It has a 40 watt anode dissipation. In the 1980s the 300B was rediscovered by audiophiles for use in home audio equipment and is known for its high fidelity, low noise and reliability. It is frequently used in single-ended triode (SET) audio amplifiers such as the Cary CAD-1610-SE and the Cayin A-300B.
Due to their rarity and high demand, new old stock (NOS) 300B tubes made by Western Electric from the 1940s–1960s have become collectible items among audio enthusiasts, with price tags in excess of $700 and used tubes selling for over $400.
Current manufacturers of new 300B tubes, and various workalikes include Electro Harmonix, Emission Labs, JJ Electronic, KR Audio, Sophia Electric, Sovtek, Svetlana and Westrex Corporation (which produces a "recreation" of the original Western Electric tube[1]). Prices range from $175 to $900 per matched pair.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The 1L6 is a 7 pin miniature vacuum tube of the pentagrid converter type. It was developed in the USA by Sylvania. It is very similar electrically to its predecessors, the Loktal based 1LA6 and 1LC6. Released in 1949 for the Zenith Trans-Oceanic shortwave portable radio, this tube was in commercial production until the early 1960s .
The 1L6 was to be a specialty tube, produced in small quantities by very few manufacturers, mostly Sylvania for use by just a few manufacturers of shortwave portables, such as Zenith - in their Trans-Oceanics - and its short-lived rivals, such as the Hallicrafters TW-1000 and the RCA Strat-O-World and very few others.
Despite the limited application for 1L6, today NOS examples bring relatively high prices. Many radio collectors overcome this expense by using the more commonly available 1R5 with pin 5 cut off.
0
0Z4 - Full-Wave Gas Rectifier
1 Volt heater/filament tubes
1L6 - Pentagrid converter
2 Volt heater/filament tubes
2B7 - Twin-diode remote-cutoff pentode
5 Volt heater/filament tubes
300B - 40 Watt directly heated triode
5Y3
5751 - low voltage low-noise avionics tube
6 Volt heater/filament tubes
6AQ5 - (EL90)
6AU6A - (EF94)
6BQ5 - (EL84)
6C19
6CA7 - (EL34)
6CL6 - Power pentode
6DA6 - (EF89)
6DJ8 - (ECC88)
6J5
6L6 - (EL37)
6N3P
6SK7 - Remote-cutoff pentode
6SN7 - Medium-mu twin triode
6V6 - Beam power tube (see also: 5V6 and 12V6)
12 Volt heater/filament tubes
12AT7 - High-mu twin triode (ECC81)
12AU7 - Medium-mu twin triode (ECC82)
12AV6 - Twin diode/High-mu triode (see also: 6AV6)
12AX7 - High-mu twin triode (ECC83)
12BA6 - Remote cutoff pentode (See also: 6BA6)
12BE6 - Pentagrid converter (See also: 6BE6)
12DT6 - Sharp cutoff pentode
25 Volt heater/filament tubes
25L6
50 Volt heater/filament tubes
50B5 - Beam power tube
50C5 - Identical to 50B5 except for biasing arrangement (HL92)
50L6 - Beam power tube (see also 25L6)
50HK6 - Power pentode
In the early years of the 21st century there has been renewed interest in vacuum tubes, this time in the form of integrated circuits. The most common design uses a cold cathode field emitter, with electrons emitted from a number of sharp nano-scale tips formed on the surface of a metal cathode.
Their advantages include greatly enhanced robustness combined with the ability to provide high power outputs at low power consumptions. Operating on the same principles as traditional tubes, prototype device cathodes have been constructed with emitter tips formed using nanotubes, and by etching electrodes as hinged flaps (similar to the technology used to create the microscopic mirrors used in Digital Light Processing) that are stood upright by a magnetic field.
Such integrated microtubes may find application in microwave devices including mobile phones, for Bluetooth and Wi-Fi transmission, in radar and for satellite communication. Presently they are being studied for possible application to flat-panel display construction.
Information from Wikipedia.
A vast array of devices were built during the 1920–1960 period using vacuum-tube techniques. Most such tubes were rendered obsolete by semiconductors; some techniques for integrating multiple devices in a single module, sharing the same glass envelope have been discussed above, such as the Loewe 3NF. Vacuum-tube electronic devices still in common use include the magnetron, klystron, photomultiplier, x-ray tube and cathode ray tube. The magnetron is the type of tube used in all microwave ovens. In spite of the advancing state of the art in power semiconductor technology, the vacuum tube still has reliability and cost advantages for high-frequency RF power generation. Photomultipliers are still the most sensitive detectors of light. Many televisions, oscilloscopes and computer monitors still use cathode ray tubes, though flat panel displays are becoming more popular as prices drop.
The fluorescent displays commonly used on VCRs and automotive dashboards are actually vacuum tubes, using phosphor-coated anodes to form the display characters, and a heated filamentary cathode as an electron source. These devices are properly called "VFDs", or Vacuum Fluorescent Displays. Because the filaments are in view, they must be operated at temperatures where the filament does not glow visibly. It is relatively easy to create highly customized VFD display designs, with all the legends required for a specific task. These devices are often found in automotive applications, where their high brightness allows reading the display in daylight.
Some tubes, like magnetrons, traveling wave tubes, carcinotrons, and klystrons, combine magnetic and electrostatic effects. These are efficient (usually narrow-band) RF producers and still find use in radar, microwave ovens and industrial heating.
Gyrotrons or vacuum masers, used to generate high power millimetre band waves, are magnetic vacuum tubes in which a small relativistic effect, due to the high voltage, is used for bunching the electrons. Free electron lasers, used to generate high power coherent light and perhaps even X rays, are highly relativistic vacuum tubes driven by high energy particle accelerators.
Particle accelerators can be considered vacuum tubes that work backward, the electric fields driving the electrons, or other charged particles. In this respect, a cathode ray tube is a particle accelerator.
A tube in which electrons move through a vacuum (or gaseous medium) within a gas-tight envelope is generically called an electron tube.
Some condenser microphone designs use built-in vacuum tube preamplifiers.
As of 2008, scores of small companies are manufacturing audiophile amplifiers and preamps that use vacuum tubes.[4]
Vacuum tube can also mean a tube with a vacuum. It is e.g. used for demonstration of, and experiments with, free-fall.
Information from Wikipedia.
All vacuum tubes produce heat while operating. Compared to semiconductor devices, larger tubes operate at higher power levels and hence dissipate more heat. The majority of the heat is dissipated at the anode, though some of the grids can also dissipate power. The tube's heater also contributes to the total, and is a source that semiconductors are free from. Caution should be used in handling heated tubes, as the temperature of the glass may be high enough to easily and quickly burn the skin, even with low-power miniature tubes.
In order to remove generated heat, various methods of cooling may be used. For low power dissipation devices, the heat is radiated from the anode—it often being blackened on the external surface to assist infrared radiation. Natural air circulation or convection is usually required to keep power tubes from overheating. For larger power dissipation, forced-air cooling (fans) may be required.
From the inception of this technology until the 1950s, the dominant approach to cooling low power tubes remained aimed at avoiding immediate or very short term failures. For noncritical consumer applications, and in absence of technological alternatives, tube failures did not create major problems for equipment manufacturers, as the cost of tube replacements was borne by end users long accustomed to the experience. Some tubes for the US defense market featured a metal casing, as opposed to glass, and an opaque, black finish that facilitated both heat conduction and radiative cooling. In some highly specialized professional applications where replacement was out of the question, such as undersea cable repeaters, no failures were acceptable. Moreover, as vacuum tube based defence systems became increasingly complex and deployed in ever increasing numbers, it became clear that point failures which were individually easy to diagnose and rectify had a devastating effect on the uptime of systems that contained tens, hundreds, and especially thousands of tubes. This resulted in both the creation of special long lasting tubes for projects such as Whirlwind and SAGE, and also in special tube shields that aided heat dispersal and could be retrofitted on existing equipment. These shields act by improving heat conduction from the surface of the tube to the shield itself by means of tens of copper tongues in contact with the glass tube, and have an opaque, black outside finish for improved heat radiation.
High-power tubes in older, large transmitters or power amplifiers are liquid cooled, usually with deionised water for heat transfer to an external radiator, similar to the cooling system of an internal combustion engine. Since the anode is usually the cooled element, the anode voltage appears directly on the cooling water surface, thus requiring the water to be an electrical insulator. Otherwise the high voltage can be conducted through the cooling water to the radiator system; hence the need for deionised water. Such systems usually have a built-in water-conductance monitor which will shut down the high tension supply (often tens of kilovolts) if the conductance becomes too high. Some very high-power transmitters, such as those used in shortwave broadcasting and VLF communications, use pressurized steam for cooling. Modern transmitters using tubes mainly in the PA section are now largely cooled by forced air through a radiator or other heat-sinking device.
Information from Wikipedia.